Turkey is famous for some rather spectacular natural beauty. Pamukkale must rank somewhere near the top of its list. Natural thermal springs flow down a hillside, building pools and frosting-like formations as the calcium and other minerals come out of solution. Tourists come to soak and pose in the gleaming white setting and to visit the thermal bath onsite. Right next door are the ruins of Hierapolis, a second-century BCE city that eventually became a Roman possession. The Romans loved their thermal baths — and modern tourists are no different. This is a stop on most Turkey bus tours so the indie traveler will want to come early in the morning. Stay overnight in the town to beat the crowds or linger for the sunset. And be sure to pack sunscreen!

Photo: Pamukkale, Turkey Natural Thermal Springs is a post from Art of Backpacking

There is no doubt that Japan is the king when it comes to intriguing and often oddball themed restaurants.  Taiwan also has its share of themed restaurants as well – the most popular, and perhaps most disturbing to many, is Modern Toilet.

You may recognize Modern Toilet from a Travel Channel feature several years ago and, if you didn’t see it, well, the name of the restaurant pretty much gives it away.

What started as a basic Taiwanese dessert shop selling ice creamed shaped like ‘poo’ has turned into an entire themed menu with multiple locations across the island.

The chain is extremely popular with teenagers and college kids, and of course – tourists.  Whenever we have friends in town, they usually want to try it at least once.  The food is solid and as far as themed restaurants go, Modern Toilet knocks it ‘out of the bowl.’

Welcome to the Modern Toilet restaurant in Taipei, Taiwan

The two Modern Toilets in Taipei that we visit are both located in popular areas of town – the Shilin Night Market and Ximen, a spot often compared to Shibuya in Tokyo.

You don’t even have to enter a Modern Toilet restaurant to get a feel for the theme.  From the giant stuffed smiling doo doo to the themed merchandise in the window, it’s all about the poop.

A giant pink pile of poop greets you at the Ximen Modern Toilet

Diners sit on crazy colored western toilets and eat off giant sinks.  Need a napkin? Snag some toilet paper off the roll on the wall.  On at least one wall, you will find some bathroom necessities — Chinese language magazines.

Interior of the Modern Toilet near Shilin Night Market in Taipei

Grab some toilet paper off the roll if you need a napkin

The servers will bring you an English menu and sharpie, and you mark off the items you want.  Take it to the counter and pay first, otherwise you will find yourself sitting there indefinitely, or until you realize everyone else is going up to pay.

The menu is pretty basic, with dishes served either out of a miniature toilet bowl, bathtub, or even a sink.  My personal favorite is the drink.  Depending on what you order, most arrive in a pretty urinal with the longest curly straw I’ve ever seen.  Be sure to try the cranberry green tea with chunks of fresh cranberries at the bottom.

Pasta served in a sink and your drink in a urinal

For main courses, choose from different curries or hot pots, and even a few western offerings line the menu.  And if you like spice, they do know how to turn up the heat.  Granted, you may pay for it in your own bathroom the next day!

For dessert, the standard included option is what put Modern Toilet on the map.  It’s ice cream, but more like an ice milk dessert.  The soft serve treat looks like a pile of poo and comes served in one of my top five most hated things about Asia – the horrific squat toilet.

If you have a few people with you, splurge and go for the near lifelike size squat toilet dessert that almost has the entire kitchen sink in it.  It’s a Taiwanese shaved ice dessert with everything imaginable on it – marshmallows resembling Lucky Charms cereal, fresh fruit, cookies, gummies, scoops of ice cream and more.  This can easily be shared among a few friends, or a tour group of 50.

Giant shaved ice dessert served in a squat toilet

And for another touch of irony – stop by the real bathroom in Modern Toilet.  While you may sit on a western style toilet to eat, you will only find traditional squat toilets, with western toilets as sinks, in a couple of the Modern Toilet locations!

Just in case you’re wondering, you are not eating out of real toilets or sinks. Everything is foodsafe and made especially for the Modern Toilet restaurant.  I only say this because I’ve had several people comment they would never go there and eat out of a real toilet.  Really…? Can’t you just see a server carrying an actual toilet to a table with food in it? Imagine the size dishwashers needed to clean those!

Before you leave Modern Toilet, check out their interesting selection of customized goods.  From poo shaped keychains and Christmas tree ornaments, to your own Modern Toilet squat toilet or urinal, they have everything poop related imaginable.  And, for those people who always say, “bring me back a souvenir,” you may have finally found something that will keep them from ever asking again.

Any bathroom related souvenirs to go?

Theme Restaurants: Modern Toilet in Taipei, Taiwan is a post from Art of Backpacking

Achingly beautiful, otherworldly landscape, dreamlike karst view…

These are all the words that describe Guangxi Province. Like you can see from the expressions, Guangxi is famous for its karst landscape. Not surprisingly it is one of the most beloved travel destination for Chinese people as well as foreigners.

Yangshuo, just an hour south from Guilin along the Li River, is surrounded by towering, leafy, limestone peaks. It is smaller and a much more pleasant town to enjoy the view. Low rooftop houses with dramatic peaks in the background and the Li River in front; all together they create this hard-to-forget view.

There are two main rivers around Yangshuo: the Yulong River (Dragon River) on the west and the Li River on the east. To enjoy the landscape, it’s the best to go out hiking, biking or walking around the nearby countryside, or by cruising down either of the rivers. During my 8 days in Yangshuo, I explored the corners of the town, hiked up to Moon Hill, biked along the Yulong River, and bamboo rafted on the Li River.

View of Yangshuo, on the top of the hostel.

Street of Yangshuo. Limestone peaks can be seen every corner of this little town.

600-year-old Dragon Bridge on Yulong River.

View of the countryside of Yangshuo, near Jima town. On the way to Yulong River.

The view that inspires 20yuan bill.

The view of Li River on the bamboo raft.

Nine Horses Mural Hill on Li River

A truck full of Shatian Grapefruit. It is one of the specialties in Guangxi Province.

Moon Hill, from afar.

Moon Hill, Closer view. It’s about 30mins away from the center of Yangshuo.

Mandarins and Kumquats in Yangshuo.

Pick your own chicken home – at Gaotian Market near Yangshuo.

The view of Li River

Lying Tiger hill near Moon Hill.

Guilin Rice Noodle is all over Guangxi Province.

Beer Fish

Photo Essay: Yangshuo, Guangxi, China is a post from Art of Backpacking

As I currently sit here in Los Angeles, where the temperatures are more reminiscent of summer rather than the middle of January, I find myself missing the gloomy weather of Taipei right now — but only to satiate my craving for a Taiwanese shaved ice.

Growing out of the Ben & Jerry’s phase where I thought a pint of Cherry Garcia could fix the world’s problems, I now turn to delights like Taiwanese mango shaved ice for moments of sadness, joy, refreshment, and well, any other excuse that pops into mind.

If you have ever looked at any given guide book on Taiwan, nine times out of ten you will find a recommendation or notation about Ice Monster in Taipei and its legendary Mango Shaved Ice.

Ice Monster's Mango Shaved Ice

It’s even more legendary now, because well, like all good things that must come to an end, so did Ice Monster.  After a bitter alimony dispute, Ice Monster closed up shop in January 2010, leaving scores of travelers and locals heartbroken.

Since then, a new store (Yong Kang 15) reopened in its place, but it has not yet achieved the same international notoriety yet, despite “rumors” that the previous Ice Monster owner signed on as a technical advisor.  However, opening in the exact location Ice Monster once stood pretty much guarantees Yong Kang 15 business from travelers toting their 2010 edition guidebooks.

Over the past two years, I’ve received emails and pleas from other travelers looking to find other shaved ice in Taipei.  Surprisingly, it’s not that hard to find.  From night markets to dedicated shops like Yong Kang 15, Taiwanese shaved ice is a staple in Taipei.

Bào Bīng (剉冰)

Often called bào bīng (剉冰), shaved ice is a popular dessert in Taipei, especially during the scorching summer months we get.  If you happen to be visiting during a cold month, just ignore the funny stares and giggles you may get from locals ordering hot desserts, and proudly dig into the frozen sweet goodness.  I certainly do.

Taiwan style shaved ice is available with a variety of toppings, but most prefer fresh mango when in season.  Mangos in Taiwan are said to be among some of the best in the world, and I will personally vouch that they are certainly some of the best I’ve ever tasted to date.

What sets Taiwanese shaved ice apart from many others I’ve tried in different countries is the fine, snow-like quality of the ice.  It’s not a hard sno-cone you could lob at your worst enemy, it’s resembles fluffy snow that just beckons you to make a snow angel.  At least based on Hollywood movie versions of snow angels!  

Atop the heaping bowl of shaved ice, choose from toppings like strawberries, mango, red bean, mung beans, grass jelly, taro, etc.  And often times, they include a scoop of fresh ice cream…or two.

Bao Bing with pudding and grass jelly

If the soupy goodness of the fruit and ice cream weren’t enough, the symbolic cherry on top is a generous slathering of sweetened condensed milk.  It’s not overly sweet where your teeth ache, but provides just enough sweetness to tie the entire dessert together.  I’ve seen other variations with chocolate sauce or sugar syrup.  It really depends on the shop and what flavors or toppings you order.

Xue Hua Bing (雪花冰)

While I could devote an entire post to this, another variation is xue hua bing (雪花冰), commonly referred to as Taiwanese snow ice.  Rather than flaky bits of ice, the base of the dessert is typically layered-sheets of frozen condensed milk.  The consistency is achieved through the milky base and a special machine that shaves the ice.

While I prefer the basic condensed milk base with passion fruit syrup, other popular varieties include green tea ice with red beans, and chocolate ice with sprinkles.  I’ve seen a few places offering corn topping (you can practically find corn on anything in Taiwan), but I can honestly say that one isn’t on my short list of flavors to try.

Green Tea Xue Hua Bing or Taiwan snow ice

Where to Find Taiwanese Shaved Ice Desserts

When visiting Taiwan, look for shaved ice stalls at popular night markets like Shilin.  There are booths inside the food building and several small shops on various alleyways. Many stores have no English signage, but offer lots of pictures on the wall, so just wander around and point to whichever one you want to order.

To try the “Ice Monster replacement”, Yong Kang 15 is super easy to find – its name is the address.  Located on the famed foodie street, just around the corner from the original Din Tai Fung, Yong Kang 15 is on a corner, about two block down on the left-hand side.  If it’s a hot Saturday night, just look for the line as your turn on to Yong Kang.

Line at Yong Kang 15 on Grand Opening night

If you have no plans to visit Taiwan soon, you may still be in luck as the addiction of Taiwanese shaved ice is spreading.  Chains like Charmy have branches in other countries, selling the “snow ice”.  Cities that have a larger Taiwanese presence typically have a few shops as well.  Bigger cities like San Francisco and Los Angeles definitely have stores that sell Taiwanese shaved ice, and while some may not be as good as what you get in Taiwan, it certainly beats not trying it at all!

Taiwanese Shaved Ice Desserts: Bào Bīng (剉冰) and Xue Hua Bing (雪花冰) is a post from Art of Backpacking

Unlike many of its big Asian-city counterparts, Taipei is not one of the cities where you typically find heaps of English speakers traveling around.  While Taiwan is definitely working to promote tourism in non-Asian countries, there are still times we can go weeks without ever hearing someone speak English.

Living in Taipei and interacting with the local community has been one of the most rewarding experiences, but every once in a great while – after nearly three years of living here – I’ve gotten homesick for the neighborhood joints and dive bars I left behind in California and Las Vegas.

Cheers!

As Taipei is so large, the expat community is quite spread out, so there isn’t necessarily one general area where people hang out.  Each district in the city has spots that have become favorites among the local expat community.

One of my favorite spots to hit in Taipei is “On Tap”. It’s an English pub of sorts, offering a myriad of bar food and drinks.  With its London Underground theme, On Tap is the one of the best bars in town if you are hoping to connect with other expats or English-speaking travelers, or catch a game.  And if you happen to be traveling during a major western holiday, On Tap usually hosts special events on Thanksgiving, Christmas, etc.

Bar at On Tap in Taipei, Taiwan

Week Night Events at On Tap

Every day of the week changes, but On Top offers a Ladies’ Night (Friday), a Lads’ Night (Wednesday), Two for One Pasta Night (Tuesday) and more.  These events are a huge hit with locals and expats alike, so it’s not uncommon to see the same people in on multiple nights a week (I admit to being there at least three days last week alone!)

Extensive Drink Menu

On Tap offers one of the better selections of beers, mixed drinks, and shots in Taipei.  They have a single malt whisky menu as well.  And if you are a Guinness purist, it’s one of the better spots to enjoy a pint.

During happy hours and certain events, like Ladies’ Night or Christmas Eve, On Tap features a number of drink specials, discounts, and more.  Each Ladies’ Night features different drinks – two of the more interesting ones just before Christmas were the Hot Chocolate Kiss (Hot Chocolate with Baileys) and Blue Christmas (Curacao, pineapple juice, tequila and more).

Blue Christmas special "Ladies Night" drink

From 11pm to midnight nightly, they have Jägermeister on special, and an all day Happy Hour on weekends.

Train Track Challenge II

For those who love a good drink challenge, take note of On Tap’s “Train Track Challenge II”.  To date, only two people have managed to complete this in one night, a rather impressive (and crazy) feat.  There is no time limit or expiration on when you need to complete the challenge. So, if you have a few days in Taipei, or may be passing through again, and want a cool beer shirt and be one of the few train masters, this drink challenge may be right up your alley.

Train Track Challenge II at On Tap

There are 26 drinks on the challenge and you must complete them in order, having your card stamped after each one.  You must finish the drink in its entirety, no passing it off to your friend!

The challenge starts off innocently enough with beers like Carlsberg, Stella, and Hoegaarden, but eventually, you move on to sweet ciders, mixed drinks, and finally a couple shots, culminating with the “Double Penetrator”.  Along the challenge, there are spots for three free drinks – you can either drink them then or pass, but no redemption at a later date.

Drinks on Train Track Challenge II

During one of our more recent conversations with Jason, one of On Tap’s owners, the number of people who had completed the Train Track Challenge (both the original and the new incarnation) was around 40 or so.

On Tap Menu

The food at On Tap is a wide range of western goodies and traditional English eats.  You can find burgers, nachos, bangers and mash, and a whole section of French fries with different sauces.  While I am typically not a big French fry person, I do rather enjoy their fries with gravy, or my new love, fries with curry sauce.

French Fries with Curry Sauce

Darts, Pool Tables, and Big Screen TVs

On Tap has its own local football (soccer) team and runs dart leagues in the bar as well.  If you are a fan of darts, looking to shoot a game of pool, or just wanting to catch a variety of sports on TV, this is the place.  During major matches and big games, you can find they typically alter their opening hours if possible to show the games live.

Location of On Tap

Since their recent move, On Tap offers a lot more space inside without losing its neighborhood charm.  It’s close to a number of great restaurants, including  a branch of Din Tai Fung. On Tap is also not too far from major tourist attractions like Taipei 101 or Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall, and it’s conveniently located amidst some of the best shopping spots in the city.

On Tap

No 21, Alley 11, Lane 216, Zhongxiao East Road, Taipei, Taiwan
106台北市大安區忠孝東路四段216巷11弄21號
Open daily from 5pm until late. Weekends open all day
+886 2741 5365 (from within Taiwan 02 741 5365)

Expat Bars in Taiwan: On Tap Pub in Taipei is a post from Art of Backpacking

Whether you’ve visited Taiwan yet or not, you likely already know one of the biggest draws to the island is, without a doubt, the food.  Food is an integral part of the culture here and it figures prominently in important Chinese holidays and traditions.

Although “Taiwan” is not that old (this year marks the 100th anniversary since the founding of the Republic of China (ROC)), the cuisine dates back long before that. Whether it be traditions brought over from mainland China, or the melting pot of cultures that shaped the island’s history thousands of years ago, what has blossomed today is one of the most beloved culinary destinations in the world.

When visiting Taiwan, be sure to include a stop to the Din Tai Fung dumpling house in Taipei.  What started as a modest family shop selling cooking oils has grown into an international brand, garnering worldwide praise, culinary awards, and inclusion in nearly every “top ten” or “must do” list for Taiwan travelers.  And while you may have run across a Din Tai Fung elsewhere in your travels, nothing beats the dumplings, or xiaolongbao, from the original branch in Taipei.

Din Tai Fung Xiaolongbao

What Din Tai Fung is most well-known for is the xiaolongbao, commonly referred to as Shanghai soup dumplings in English. The basic pronunciation is “sheow (like “show” in shower), long, bow (as in take a bow, or “ow” in about).

Pork xialongbao from Din Tai Fung in Taipei, Taiwan

If you speak even a little Chinese, you might recognize that the “bao” in xiaolongbao actually means bun.  This is where a bit of confusion in translation can occur, depending on where you are hoping to try xiaolongbao.  In parts of mainland China, you will see them referred to as steamed pork buns, while many other parts of the world call them dumplings.  When in doubt, just ask for xiaolongbao!

The basic premise behind the xiaolongbao is the soupy broth that explodes from the delicate dumpling skin when eating one.  The most popular type of xiaolongbao is pork, but you can find variations including pork with crab roe, vegetable, chicken, and even pork with black truffle at some Din Tai Fung locations.

What really sets Din Tai Fung apart from other dumplings is the precision, care, and training that go into perfecting these little slivers of heaven.  Din Tai Fung has a regimented training program upon hire, which I’ve heard can take six to nine months, to learn how to perfect the art of making a xiaolongbao.  Their secret is the 18 pleats, which a trained master can do in the matter of three seconds.

I have made these at home, with far less pleats, and I nearly set a speed record at…TWO MINUTES per dumpling.  It appears my only future with Din Tai Fung is as a consumer.

When you visit any Din Tai Fung location, in or out of Taiwan, one signature element is the open kitchen. People flock around the big windows to watch the mesmerizing split-second process of making the various types of dumplings.

Be sure to check out the Din Tai Fung dumpling masters at work in the open kitchen

How to Eat a Xiaolongbao

Yes, there is even a proper way to eat a xiaolongbao.  Din Tai Fung prides itself on ensuring that all patrons who are first timers are given the sheet detailing how to eat a xiaolongbao.

You start by delicately picking up the dumpling at the top and dipping it into the proper ratio (3:1) of black vinegar and soy sauce.  You then place the dumpling on a spoon and pierce the skin – some people pinch with their teeth and suck the broth out while others poke with their chopsticks — allowing the broth to dribble out onto the spoon.  Add a few pieces of ginger and enjoy!

Gently pick up the dumpling with chopsticks to avoid breaking the skin

One caveat — beware of the boiling hot broth when the dumplings are first brought out! Let them cool a minute or two otherwise you will scald the roof of your mouth.

History of Din Tai Fung

The founder of Din Tai Fung was born in the Shanxi Province of China but immigrated to Taiwan to escape the civil war in China.  Bingyi Yang began work in Taiwan as a delivery boy for his uncle’s cooking oils store, HengTaiFung. He married a co-worker and after several years, found himself unemployed after the shop went out of business.

Yang and his wife started their own business of selling oils and decided on the name Din Tai Fung – he purchased oils wholesale from “DinMei Oils” and combined that with “HengTaiFung” to create Din Tai Fung.  This was a show of gratitude for giving him a start in Taiwan.

Din Tai Fung's xiaolongbao, or Shanghai soup dumplings, are known worldwide

When purchasing the telephone number for the shop back in 1958 – the same number used today – Yang asked the commissioner to write the characters for the shop sign, which are still on display in the Xinyi store.

Their business took off allowing them to purchase the storefront on Xinyi Road, but the market started to plummet and on the advice of a friend, they turned half the shop into a dumpling shop.  Even without any advertising, word-of-mouth spread due to the quality of the dumplings, helping them grow into the international legend they have become today.

Din Tai Fung is listed in nearly every guidebook, earned a nod from the New York Times as one of the 10 Best Restaurants in the world, and their Hong Kong locations have each garnered one Michelin star.

Din Tai Fung Locations

There are multiple locations in Taiwan and now branches in China, Japan, Singapore, Australia, Thailand, the United States and more.

When visiting Taipei, there are five Din Tai Fung locations to choose from, including the brand new Taipei101 branch that makes it very convenient to grab an order of xiaolongbao after heading to the top of the world’s second tallest building. Expect the longest queue lines at the original branch on Xinyi, but it tends to move pretty fast.  Average price of an order of dumplings ranges from $5 to $10 US.

Must Try Foods in Taiwan: Xiaolongbao from Din Tai Fung is a post from Art of Backpacking

Christmas is fast approaching, and from a cultural standpoint, this time of the year is one of the more interesting times to travel.  The opportunities to experience major holidays in other countries are some of my most treasured travel memories.

While many people prefer to visit the Christmas markets of historic cities in Europe during the holiday season, I’ve found some considerable charm in a number of Asian countries that I did not initially expect.

Confession time though first, admittedly, I will be hitting the Christmas Markets in Paris this weekend — lots of gluwein in hand!

One of my favorite Asian cities I visit annually, during the Christmas holiday season, is Hong Kong.  Despite being the typical “big Asian city,” I find it has a lot of charm, warmth, and a strange coziness about it in December.

To really appreciate Christmastime in Hong Kong though, you have to visit the Kowloon peninsula. The famous ‘A Symphony of Lights’ show on Victoria Harbour gets a festive overlay making it a “must see” for me in December.

Central Hong Kong skyline during the holiday season

While you can see the show from both Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula, I’ve always been more fond of the views of the skyline from the Kowloon side.  Here you are looking back into Central with a backdrop of some of the more famous Hong Kong buildings — a photography dreamscape for many.

Over the years, I’ve heard some people say the light show is a bit overrated, while others see it every single time they are in Hong Kong, no matter how often they visit.  It’s hard to argue with a free show, and I find it’s a wonderful way to appreciate just how massive the buildings are – especially when all the skyscrapers are lit up at night.

Detail of lights on a few of the buildings decorated for Christmas

If you aren’t familiar with ‘A Symphony of Lights,’ it is a multimedia show that includes more than 40 buildings on each side of Victoria Harbour. It utilizes colored lights, laser beams, and searchlights to create the synchronized display set to music and narration.  The show has been named the “World’s Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show” by Guinness World Records, so it’s definitely worthwhile to see at least once in your life.

‘A Symphony of Lights’ takes place nightly at 8pm.  For English narration, you can listen alongside the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront between the Avenue of the Stars and the Hong Kong Cultural Centre.  This is the most popular vantage point and it is recommended you arrive at least an hour before, perhaps more on a weekend if you are hoping to snag a prime spot to set up your tripod.

A couple of the green lasers during 'A Symphony of Lights'

A few other good spots to catch the show are area rooftop bars and hotels.  The key is not to be too high up – we learned that after visiting the brand new Ritz-Carlton earlier this year, which became the tallest hotel in the world when it opened its doors in April.  While the views from the restaurants and bars are nice, you cannot see the lasers from that high up so don’t waste your time.

View of some of the holiday lights from a rooftop bar in Central

If you are in Hong Kong this month, be sure to look for other festive displays as the city really goes all out for Christmas.  There are Tiffany & Co. themed Christmas displays in Kowloon, and some shopping malls have massive interactive exhibits and events.  This year, Hong Kong Harbour City, a shopping and entertainment complex, has Christmas displays devoted to Disney-Pixar’s Toy Story franchise to celebrate the new Toy Story Land that opened at Hong Kong Disneyland in November.  Also some hotels, restaurants, and local bakeries often have special themed menus, pastries, and other goodies worth seeking out.  The Hong Kong Tourism Board has also put together a pretty nice overview of some of the holiday happenings in the city if you are looking for other ideas on what to see and do.

Tiffany & Co display in Hong Kong one Christmas season

You can visit Hong Kong 1,000 times and think you’ve seen everything there is to see, but come back at Christmastime, and, I think you’ll agree, it’s like discovering a brand new city for the first time.

Holiday Travel: Hong Kong and ‘A Symphony of Lights’ at Christmastime is a post from Art of Backpacking

The Philippine cuisine is as colorful as its history. It’s a fusion of the native and several foreign influences including Chinese, Malay, Arab, Spanish, and American. According to food historians, 80 percent of the dishes are of Spanish origin—thanks to the almost 400-year rule of Spain in the country. Filipino dishes are combination of flavors—sweet, sour, and salty—that are remarkably pleasing to the taste buds.

Traveling to different parts of the Philippines presents regional specialties and cooking variations of their dishes. Many of the regions rely heavily on their agricultural or seafood products that are abundant locally.

Manila, the capital city, located in Luzon (the largest island group of the Philippines) brings all the native fares from different parts of the country together. Regional delicacies and dishes are available for you to enjoy. However, in search for the best of those native dishes, you need to go to the island or the region where the food originates.

For native grilled dishes, one of the popular restaurants in Manila and other urban areas in the country is Gerry’s Grill. They offer grilled bangus (milkfish), tuna belly, chicken, and pork liempo (pork belly). They also serves one of the tastiest beef kare-kare (a Filipino peanut stew with oxtail, beef, and vegetables) eaten with salty bagoong (shrimp paste) to complement its slightly sweet taste.

Kare-kare by Slave Unit, on Flickr

Filipinos love to eat– they eat breakfast, brunch, lunch, snacks/merienda, and dinner. Eating pancit (noodles) for snack is a typical Filipino habit. This dish is made of pancit canton (thin noodles) and pancit bihon (rice noodles) mixed with vegetables and meat topped with chicharon (pork cracklings). One of the best pancit canton you can buy in the metro is from Ado’s Panciteria, wrapped in banana leaf.

Manila as a melting pot of foreign culinary influences also offers international dishes to suit your cravings. If you want to eat Chinese food, you can go to China Town where you can feast on your favorite dim sum, noodles, and other Chinese dishes. Japanese, Korean, Thai, European, and American restaurants are easy to spot in this part of the country.

Going north from Manila is Bulacan, famous for its chicharon (pork rinds or cracklings). It is made from pork skin or pork fat, with or without meat, salted and deep-fried. This cholesterol-laden food is best eaten when it is dip into a vinegar solution. Chicharon sold in the streets are not at par with those you can buy from Bulacan.

Moving further north is the province of Pampanga, touted as the culinary capital of the Philippines. This is the home of the famous Aling Lucing’s sisig, a tasty concoction of minced grilled pork (pig’s face and belly), mixed with chopped liver, and onions. It is served in a sizzling plate, with chili and calamansi. Lucia Cunanan aka Aling Lucing invented this dish way back in 1970’s.

They say that people in Pampanga eat everything. A visit in Everybody’s Café may prove that right when you see betute (deep-fried stuffed frog) and kamaru (crispy and succulent fried crickets). The café also serves the best morcon (stuffed beef roll topped with special sauce) in town.

To know what a Filipino pizza is, try Doy’s Kapampangan pizza at the historic shed-turned-restaurant, Camalig. It has a not-so-thin crispy crust with rich sauce, uniquely topped with Kapampangan sausage, ebun buru (salted duck egg), onions, and pickle relish. Looks weird, but you’ll be amazed on how good it taste.

While in Angeles City, trying Pampanga’s halo-halo (halo literally means “mix”, a mix of everything) is a must. The famous Kabigting’s serves a luscious halo-halo that has a mixture of sweetened banana, beans, corn, macapuno, and pastillas topped with finely shaved ice, mixed with milk. Unlike the halo-halo you’ll find anywhere in the country, Pampanga serves the creamiest and tastiest.

Kabigting's Halo-halo by car_samaniego, on Flickr

Located on the southwestern region of Luzon is the province of Batangas. It is where you can find the most sought-after bulalo (beef soup). The delicious and cholesterol-high dish has big portion of tender beef and succulent bone marrow, and vegetables. Many people would visit the popular Rose & Grace for a taste of hot and tasty Batangas bulalo.

Bicol in the southeastern tip of Luzon, land of the coconuts, is the hometown for bicol express (pork with red and green chilies and coconut milk) and pinangat (meat wrapped in taro leaves with coconut milk and chilies). Waway’s Restaurant in Albay is among the top choices to eat those hot and spicy dishes.

Cebu’s Lechon (roasted pig) is hailed to be the crispiest and tastiest. It catapulted to stardom when Anthony Bourdain of No Reservations covered lechon during his trip to the Philippines in 2008. The pig is stuffed with wild spring onions, lemon grass, red onions, and star anise. It is then roasted over slow fire. CNT is a popular brand name for Cebu’s lechon.

Lechon by N0fX, on Flickr

Cebu and neighboring regions that are near bodies of water are abundant with fishes and other seafood products. Many of the locals would eat fish raw, but unlike the Japanese sashimi, the fish would be soaked in local vinegar mixed with spices—they call this kinilaw. Tuyo (dried fish) is also one of the delicacies in these areas.

The Philippines, with over 7,000 islands, has a lot to offer—so many travel destinations and so many dishes to try. Some of the dishes are simple to prepare, while others can be so laborious and requires years of culinary experience. Different regions of the country have their own versions of common victuals. Pork adobo (pork boiled in soy sauce and vinegar, mixed with garlic, onion, peppercorn, and bay leaves), for instance, which is a household dish, have a variety of cooking method.

Lutong Bahay - Chicken Adobo by dbgg1979, on Flickr

The Filipino cuisine is all about the right blending of flavors that make the dishes flavorful. Traveling to different islands and regions in the Philippines is such a pleasant gastronomic experience

Food Trip in the Philippines is a post from Art of Backpacking

When in Rome, do as the Romans do—an advice fitting for any travelers visiting a foreign land. So, when you are in the Philippines, testing your palate with the Filipino street foods, while not necessary, is commendable. Not only would it be fun to try the unique local dishes, but it is a great way to immerse and understand the Filipino culture.

It is easy to spot street food vendors; where there are churches, schools, recreational parks, or jeepney terminals, you will also see kiosks, makeshift stalls, or food carts. In suburbs, you will see vendors or hawkers with their bicycles or push carts almost everywhere. Street food is a way of life for many people in this part of the globe. It is a source of income for many Filipino families—some vendors testified that their street food businesses enable them to send their children to school. For students and working adults looking for inexpensive meal, street food satisfy them for just half-the price of a meal in any popular fast-food restaurant.

Instead of dining in a restaurant for an authentic Filipino dish, why not go out in the street and have a quick bite. There is nothing more authentic than those food in the streets—untouched with the modern culinary flair. You will not only get to enjoy the food, but you get to join the locals who are eating with much gusto. Let you save couple of dollars too. In fact, with just $2 USD you’ll get home stuffed. Sanitation can be a bit off though. However, if you are up to the challenge, then prepare your taste buds for a wonderful street food adventure.

Banana Cue

Deep-friend Saba (banana) that is coated in caramelized brown sugar and skewered in bamboo stick. It is best to eat it while hot.

Banana Cue by supafly, on Flickr

Fish balls, squid balls and chicken balls

Some of the delicious deep-fried balls you can find in the streets. Fish balls are made of finely pulverized fish meats. It is usually flat in shape. Squid balls and chicken balls are some of its recent variation. Typically, the balls are eaten by dunking it into your preferred sauce: spicy vinegar, sweet and sour sauce, or sweet gravy.

Kikiam

A Filipino version of the Chinese quekiam; made of ground pork and vegetables wrapped in bean curd sheets. It is deep-fried to perfection and served with your choice of sauce.

siomai and kikiam by Caryl Joan Estrosas, on Flickr

Kwek kwek and tokneneng

Hard-boiled eggs dipped in orangey batter and fried until crispy. Kwek kwek use quail eggs while Tokneneng use chicken eggs.

squid balls and tokneneng by Caryl Joan Estrosas, on Flickr

Siomai

Steamed dumplings, originally a Chinese dim sum, made with pork, beef, or shrimp. For just 25 pesos (57 cents USD) or less, don’t expect it to taste like those in the Dim sum house or restaurant.

Taho

Soybean snack with sweet syrup and tapioca pearls.

Taho - Source: Wikipedia

Arroz caldo and goto

Rice porridge similar to Chinese congee with ginger and some herbs. Arroz caldo has chicken and egg while goto has beef tripe.

Filipino Arroz Caldo on Wikipedia

Batchoy

Noodle soup with pork innards or chicken meat, pork cracklings and vegetables

Batchoy on Wikipedia

Chicharon

Filipino cracklings made from different parts of the chicken and pig, seasoned, and deep-fried. These include chicken skin (crispy chicken skin), chicharong baboy (cracklings from pork rind), chicharong bituka (crispy, deep-fried chicken and pork intestines), and chicharong bulaklak (cracklings from pork omentum).

Barbecue

Marinated chicken and pork skewered and grilled over hot charcoal. Other grilled food includes adidas (chicken feet), betamax (dried chicken or pork blood), helmet (chicken head), isaw (chicken intestines), and pwet ng manok (chicken ass)

Isaw by Caryl Joan Estrosas, on Flickr

Halo-halo

A Filipino dessert made with a mixture of shaved ice, evaporated milk, and assorted ingredients like beans, macapuno, jackfruit, gulaman, tapioca pearls, sweet potato, corn, and nata de coco. It is then topped with leche flan or purple yam. Halo-halo in restaurants would typically include a scoop of icecream on it.

Halo-halo at 83 Gallery Cafe by bingbing, on Flickr

Calamares

Deep-fried breaded squid rings

Kakanin

This is a Filipino term for a variety of rice recipes. Some of the popular kakanin you will see in the streets are:

Puto: Rice cakes that comes in variety of colors, sometimes topped with cheese
Suman: Steamed glutinous rice, wrapped in banana or coconut leaves
Bibingka: Glutinous rice grilled in a clay pot
Palitaw: Sticky snack made from glutinous rice, served with sesame seeds and grated coconut
Sapin-sapin: Colorful, layered rice cake made from glutinous rice, topped with grated coconut or toasted coconut milk curd
Biko: Dark sweet glutinous rice cake
Maja blanca: Cocounut cake

kakanin variety by Caryl Joan Estrosas, on Flickr

Day-old Chicks

This is literally a one-day-old male chicks. They are deep-fried, served with spicy vinegar and eaten whole.

Balut

Saving the best for last is the balut. It is a hard-boiled three-week old duck egg, high in protein, and believed to be aphrodisiac. It is very notorious because of how it look, with its nearly-formed embryo. The proper way of eating balut is to suck the amniotic fluid first before peel it off to eat the chick and the yolk.

Balut by Caryl Joan Estrosas, on Flickr

There is no glamour eating street foods, but why seek for glamour when you want fun and adventure. Your palate may not be the same again once you have tasted the Filipino street foods. As double-dipping is very common especially for fish balls, a little piece of safety advice: request for a separate plastic cup instead for your choice of dip. Vendors usually keep a separate bottle for their sauces. Also, be watchful on how vendors prepare and cook their food.

Filipino Street Food Adventure is a post from Art of Backpacking

Tajikistan is one of the few remaining truly off-the-beaten-track travel experiences left in the world. This corner of Central Asia was wracked by civil war for many years but is now stable and open to tourists.

Travel south and east from the capital of Dushanbe along the M41. In the lush Wakhan Valley Afghanistan is at times only a stone’s throw away across the river. Then it’s up across a 4,655m pass onto the breathtaking Pamir highway. You’ll find ancient otherworldly landscapes, ancient rock drawings and geoglyphs, semi-nomadic herders with their yurts and Soviet-built wild east towns.

The Farsi-speaking Tajiks are curious and welcoming of visitors and I encountered some overwhelming hospitality. Here is a photo essay representing some highlights of landscapes and people:

The M41 "highway" through the Wakhan follows the Panj River that forms the border with Afghanistan.

One of the many families who took offered hospitality in their homes on the journey.

Children in the Wakhan Valley who begged me to take their photo but were then overcome with shyness.

At last the high Pamir plateau, like another world.

The spectacular lake of Yashil-kul, ringed with snowy peaks.

Children in the isolated village of Bulunkul.

The exquisite clear water spring of Ak-Bkyl beside the Pamir highway.

A Kyrgyz man in the town of Murghab.

Small herds of yaks and sheep are run by Kyrgyz semi-nomadic herdsmen who live in yurts during the summer months.

Lake Karakul, on the last leg of the journey through Tajikistan towards the border with Kyrgyzstan.

Natasha von Geldern is the Wandering Kiwi, a travel blogger, writer and editor who is passionate about discovering and covering the world, inspiring online travel lovers everywhere.

Tajikistan’s Wild East | Photo Essay is a post from Art of Backpacking