Since I moved away from California and its endless supply of authentic Mexican restaurants in 2009, I have spent the past three years hopelessly searching for decent Mexican food abroad — especially in Taiwan.

Yeah…I know.

Obviously, Taiwan is not likely to be home to some of the world’s best tacos, but I always held out hope that eventually I would find something that didn’t result in a call back home to Mom in hopes she had figured out a way to overnight me some.

And for a bit, we were living la vida loca with a great local place that not only had decent food but the best passion fruit margaritas on earth (with real passion fruit, no syrup extract!) And then, like all good things, my taco train came to an end.

It’s now early May and that brings Cinco de Mayo and feelings of bitterness that last over all the subsequent days of the month. While all my friends are posting pics of delicious tacos, guacamole, and certainly lots of tequila and cerveza, I am usually brooding in some remote destination that wouldn’t know a taco if it hit them in the head.

Until now! Finally someone was clued in to the importance of expats needing a good taco fix now and then — meet my new vice, Macho Tacos in Taipei.

Macho Tacos in Taipei, Taiwan

Macho Tacos now has two locations in Taipei and serves Baja style tacos and burritos, complete with a fish taco option that makes me feel like I am back in San Diego, California. You are quickly reminded that it’s Taipei though when you peruse the meat options for tacos…chicken, beef, pork, or tofu! It wouldn’t be a local restaurant without a tofu option.

Carnitas Soft Taco at Macho Tacos

The menu at Macho Tacos is pretty simple — tacos, burritos, quesadillas, burrito bowls, and nachos.  The prices are reasonable for Western food in Taipei, which can sometimes be quite expensive. For about $5 US, you can get three meat (carne asada, carnitas, or chicken) tacos, or for a bit more, you can get the three fish tacos. Right now, they are running a special Taco Tuesday special for about $1 US each (excluding fish tacos).  Sadly, I am headed to Italy on Monday so it looks like Taco Tuesdays are going to have to wait for me for a couple more weeks!

Baja Style Fish Tacos from Macho Tacos

When compared to local Taiwanese street food, the normal prices are a higher, but sometimes after traveling for months, you just need that little taste of home. Also, if you are hoping to run into a few more English speakers around Taipei, this is a great place to stop as most weekends it’s packed with local expats.

Macho Tacos is a tiny hole-in-the-wall that specializes in Baja-style Mexican food (also commonly referred to as Fresh Mex).  They’ve become a beloved fixture in the Taipei dining scene and I hope their luchadore (Mexican wrestler) and great food continue to delight the stomachs of other expats.

Carne Asada Nachos at Macho Tacos

Some of my friends thought my quest for Mexican food outside of the Americas was disturbing, but I had to believe there were other taco connoisseurs who shared my inane love for little corn tortillas filled with giant hunks of carne asada and enough onions and cilantro to rival the effects of a good dose of garlic. It wasn’t until I became acquainted with Jade from Vagabond3, that I knew I had a kindred spirit in the world. After talking Mexican food countless times on Twitter, we were finally able to enjoy a meal together after TBEX 2011 in Vancouver, and I’m looking forward to hopefully venturing off on the hunt for more tacos elsewhere sometime.

And hey, if anyone ever wants to sponsor a round the world trip in search of the best tacos around the globe, I’m sure you have two Los Angeles girls who would gladly volunteer!

The Eternal Search for Good Mexican Food Abroad: Macho Tacos in Taipei, Taiwan is a post from Art of Backpacking

Nearly every other block in Buenos Aires has a panaderia (bakery). The bakers wake up extra early to cook and fully stock up their inventory. It’s an unavoidable smell every morning and it’s great. All the good bakeries have a line and sometimes a number system in the early morning waiting to get the freshest inventory. You’re given a pair of tongs and a basket. It’s a buffet of pastries row after row all smelling so delicious that it’s really difficult to know which ones to choose with such a huge selection. Usually there’s a poster that says if you buy a dozen, you get a deal. I’m always tempted to buy twelve but I know I couldn’t finish it without another four people to help. I can usually eat about four before I give up.

The most popular pastries are the Facturas. Bakeries are full of them but it’s also easy to find in supermarkets and cafes which often come with coffee. They are most often purchased by the dozen and shared among friends or co-workers with mate. It’s origins are from Europe and are similar to Danish pastries. They are covered in sugar so prepare for a massive amount. The most popular fillings dulce de leche, custard (crema pastelera), and quince paste (dulce de membrillo) — all three being my favorite. They come in different shapes and sizes as well with each of them having a separate name for the type.

The names of the facturas though are interesting.

On July 18, 1887 in Buenos Aires, an Italian anarchist named Ettore Mattei, created the Resistance Cosmopolitan Society and Placement of Workers Bakers. He lived in Argentina between 1885 and 1889 and was commissioned to draw up their constitutions. Errico Malatesta was commissioned to draw up their constitutions but in 1889, he leaves Argentina, leaving behind the militant union that he helped organize. The anarchists had to hide in Argentina due to their views and ideals.

Between 1894 and 1930, the society edited the newspaper El Obrero Baker using irony and sarcasm to name their pastries against the government and super powers. The names soon became commonly used  and even the churches became selling the pastries with all of them taunting the police.

The facturas no longer hold the same meaning as they once did but the history and names are still used.

Media Luna - Half Moon

Media Luna con Dulce de Leche - Half Moon with Milk Caramel

Moño con Membrillo y Crema Pastelera - Bun with Quince and Cream Cake

Vijilante - Vigilant

Bola de Fraile con Dulce de Leche - Friar Ball with Milk Caramel

Pañuelitos de Grasa - Fat Wipes

A few images that I’m missing of popular facturas are cañoncitos (little cannons), miguelitos, and a few others that will eventually be added on here.

Have you tried facturas? Which are you favorites?

Facturas: A Guide To Argentina’s Breakfast Pastries is a post from Art of Backpacking

While London may be a hot spot this year with the upcoming 2012 Summer Olympics, the city is also garnering some attention from beer enthusiasts who have watched the city bounce back in a surprise beer boom as noted by several local beer experts and writers.

While I’m more partial to wine when it relates to culinary travel, I’m an equal opportunist imbiber truthfully, and have developed quite a soft spot for quality craft and microbrew beers.  After a decline in craft beer producers in London several years ago, the city has seen an influx of new microbreweries popping up, many of which are producing some fantastic brews that highlight the qualities that put London on the beer map in the first place.

Here are five spots to enjoy your London holidays with a local craft beer.

Old Brewery

Meantime London Porter (flickr: Bernt Rostad)

Old Brewery is a restaurant and bar opened and operated by Meantime London — one of London’s local breweries.  Meantime Brewery was founded by Alastair Hook, a south Londoner himself.  He graduated from one of the UK’s leading brew schools, and what he started as a small business in his flat back in 1999 has today grown to be one of London’s most respected craft beer producers.

Recommendation: London Porter 6.5%.  While not necessarily the most budget friendly brew, it is a 750 ml bottle and with 6.5% alcohol, not one to chug.

Old Brewery: The Pepys Building, The Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich (020) 3327 1280

Carpenters Arms

After a fairly recent facelift, Carpenters Arms has been consistently rated as one of the better spots for a pint in the city.  While they have a lot of draught beer and an impressive selection of bottles from around the globe, their regularly rotating selection of ales features one worth a try — Truman’s Runner Ale.

Truman’s was founded back in 1666 and lasted until 1989 when the brewery and pubs were closed. It made a surprising return in 2010 when two young local beer enthusiasts decided to bring back what many consider to be an integral part of London history.  Their first release is a bitter, “Truman’s Runner”, an ode to the original Truman’s porter that was known as “Runner”.

Carpenters Arms: 73 Cheshire Street, London (020) 7739 6342

Prince of Wales 

Twickenham Fine Ales (flickr: LoopZilla)

Prince of Wales in Twickenham features several local brews, but one of the producers they highlight is worth a mention — Twickenham Fine Ales. These interesting brews have been known to be pretty hard to find outside of the general vicinity of the brewery itself.  One of the more popular year round offerings is “Naked Ladies”, a brew inspired by statues of water nymphs at York House gardens in Twickenham.  If the name of this particular brew sounds familiar, it is the one you are most likely to find outside Twickenham, and is even brewed under license in Belgium.

The Prince of Wales: 136 Hampton Road, Twickenham, Middlesex (020) 8894 5054

King William IV Hotel and Bar

The King William IV is the official brewery tap for what was the adjoining Sweet William Brewery. It was eventually abandoned and, in 2008, Jamie and Lizzie Brodie took it over and managed to brew Brodie’s IPA after only six weeks of cleaning and fix up work.  They now produce over 30 different beers under the Brodie’s name. King William IV has sixteen different beers on every weekend — all of which are just £1.99 a pint!

King William IV: 816 High Road, Leyton, London (020) 8556 2460

The Kernel Brewery

The Kernal Brewery (flickr: Bernt Rostad)

Stop by for “Saturdays at the Kernel” where you can buy beer direct from the brewery, sample a few different pints, and enjoy the neighboring Matlby Street area. From 9am until 2pm on Saturdays, this newish hot-spot is the place to be for foodies.  A number of food merchants, along with Kernel Brewery, moved into this area and you can sample everything artisan foods, coffees, and of course Kernel beers.

The Kernel has been named one of London’s best breweries and has received numerous awards and accolades.  One of the more popular offerings is the India Pale Ale (IPA) – a truly artisanal brew that is inspired both by old-style London porters and stouts, but also US-style hoppy Pale Ales.

The Kernel Brewery: Unit 11, Dockley Road Industrial Estate, London (077) 5755 2636

Photos: Flickr, Bernt Rostad, LoopZilla

This post has been sponsored by London Holiday Packages

London Breweries: Five Spots to Enjoy Local Craft Beers is a post from Art of Backpacking

Cheese varieties across the world are as diversified as the places you can travel to. If your idea of cheese is a mass produced thin orange-yellow slice, perhaps it’s time to open your eyes to the wonderful world of cheese.

Travel lover can take their passion for discovering the unknown and a dislike for the mundane and apply it to experiencing cheese. Cheese varies by where the milk comes from, how it’s made, how it’s eaten, texture, flavor, and so much more. It can take a day to make or several years. And people take cheese seriously. Many cheeses, especially throughout Europe, are under a protection by designation or origin, like champagne.

Cheese was actually invented because of travel. It’s believed that cheese production may have started in Egypt more than 4.000 years ago when Egyptians carried milk with them during journeys. The gentle agitation rocked the bags carrying milk and created cheese. Here are some places around the world producing cheese:

United States

The United States is the leading country of cheese production with making more than 30% of the world’s cheese. Cheese is made throughout the entire country, but the prominent cheese regions include Wisconsin, California especially in Sonoma and Marin County, Vermont, and the Pacific Northwest. The country’s most produced cheeses are American, Cheddar, Mozzarella, and Cream cheese. But just like the craft beer revolution taking place in America, people are becoming more interested in unique, artisan cheeses.

Cream Cheese Chocolate Chip Cookies by famfriendsfood, on Flickr

Australia

Australia’s cheese making industry has boomed more rapidly than anywhere else. In the 1960’s the were producing 20 variations, by the 1970’s it had doubles, and today, they are producing more than 100 different kinds of cheeses. The country is most known for its delicious cheddars.

England

It’s estimated that England produces more than 700 different types of cheeses. Cheddar is named after the Cheddar Gorge caves in Somerset. Some popular cheeses produced in England include Stilton, Blue, Cheddar, Gloucester, and Lancashire.

France

France is the biggest exporter of cheese by monetary value. Known for creamy and often robust cheeses, Bleu, Brie, Camembert, Mimolette, Roquefort, and Chevre are just a few of the most common cheeses produced.

French Cheese in Candlelight by NycoHerzog, on Flickr

Brazil

Most cheese produced in Brazil is pasteurized for food safety reasons, but Queijo Minas is made with raw cow’s milk. The soft cheese is made in Minas Gerai and has strict regulations to remain its safety.

Italy

Asiago, Fontina, Mozzarella, Pecorino, Talaggio, and Provolone are just a handful of delicious cheeses made throughout Italy. Many Italian cheeses have a nuttiness that works well in pastas. Perhaps the most well-known, Parmesan, is produced in the Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, and Mantura regions of the country. Parmesan is made from cow’s milk and takes 12 months to properly age before it makes its way to your table.

pecorino by talkoftomatoes, on Flickr

Germany

Germany makes more than 600 different types of cheeses with 75% of them being produced in Bavaria. Allgauer Emmentaler, also known as Swiss, is one of the most popular cheeses made. Other cheeses produced inclue Tilsiter, Wilstermarschkase, Gouda, and Munster.

Egypt

Egypt’s most famous cheese is Domiati, a soft, white cheese. The cheese is usually made with buffalo’s milk and has a salty taste. It can also be throughout the Middle East.

Greece

Feta is probably the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Greek cheese. It’s a crumbly cheese often made from goat or sheep’s milk. Some other cheeses produced in Greece include Anthotiros, Parnassos, Galotiri, Graviera, Kasseri.

Turkey

Besides cow milk, cheeses in Turkey are also made with lamb’s milk. A fresh white cheese is popular which is similar to feta. They make about 20 different cheeses including some with other authentic ingredients you may associate with Turkish culture like cumin, bay leaves, dill, lavender, and mint.

Netherlands

Gouda and Edam may be the most popular cheeses produced in the Netherlands, but it’s the way it’s sold that is interesting. Dutch cheese makers bring their cheese to outside markets throughout the country to sell their cheese.

Gouda Farmhouse Extra Aged Cheese by artizone, on Flickr

Switzerland

Of the more than 450 varieties of cheeses made in Switzerland, almost all of it is produced from cows. Besides Swiss, they produce Gruyere, Raclette, and Gala.

Asia

Asian cuisine is usually not what comes to mind when thinking of cheese. It’s not a common ingredient produced. But in China, they make Rushan cheese from cow’s milk that has been in production since the Ming Dynasty. In Nepal, they produce cheese from the milk of a yak.

Cheese Travel Around the World is a post from Art of Backpacking

I hear it all the time in Argentina by the locals “isn’t chinese food bugs and fish?” Do they really think 1.4 billion people are eating bugs? With thousands of years of history, that bugs are the only thing they can think of? Did they forget who brought the pasta to Italy that they are so much a fan of?

Even many of my friends in the US are confused. They think of fish when they think of chinese food in China. How is that possible? Chinese take-away is popular so I would have thought the first thing would be a variation of that. I knew very little about chinese food before going to China but I definitely didn’t think fish and bugs.

Also sushi is not a thing in China. Wrong country.

The coast of China eats more fish than other parts of China and sometimes rivers throughout the country can provide fish as well. China is enormous though so food is different depending on the region. That’s really no different than how it’s like in USA.

Yu Xiang Rou Si - Pork Slivers

You’ve been to China and still didn’t like the food? This is why that’s impossible…

If you don’t speak chinese, it’s difficult to order food. I understand that. Chances are you hardly touched what chinese food is all about. With 1.4 billion people and being the fourth largest country in the world, it would take a lifetime to order all the different dishes China has to offer.

What’s really magically about China is that every province has its own specialty and sometimes can’t be found anywhere else. The food you eat in Guangdong province will be vastly different from the food you’ll eat in Xinjiang province.

It’s a suspicious claim to make when you’ve hardly discovered their food. It’s the most broad term. Not liking chinese food is basically like saying you don’t like ANY vegetables or meat.

There’s a HUGE variety of dishes in China. Look at the menu in many of the restaurants and you’re handed a book of what they offer. The selection is more than you could possibly imagine in China. Spicy, sweet, buttery, cold, hot, crunchy, deep-fried, nutty, oily, peppery, rich, sour, toasted – you’ve got it all.

The selection is so big that really chinese food can fit anyones tastes. Every time I handed the menu to a local, they took long to order because it was difficult to decide what to get because it was too much.

It’s like someone saying “I don’t like american food.” It’s so general that it doesn’t make sense.

So where do you find the good food?

Stop eating at the hostels.

The hostels in China are super organized. They know how to cater to western tourists. They mostly cater to western tastes with menus like pizza, burgers, fries, etc. That’s not chinese food. Instead, get your hostel to recommend you a local restaurant. Get them to write down a few dishes in chinese. Tell them what kind of food you like. If you eat chicken, vegetables, meat, etc. Get them to even write down the pinyin so you can say it yourself and order again in the future if you liked the dish. Every hostel I’ve stayed in China was helpful about this.

Liang Pi (Cold Noodles) a local dish in Xi'an

Get recommendations online.

Art of Backpacking has several articles about chinese foods. Print it out or write it down. Walk into a restaurant and start ordering. Not that hard. If they put hand gestures that they don’t have it, then go to the next one on the list. Many of the foods I list are common throughout China. Sichuan cuisine is the most popular.

See:

• 10 Foods You Must Eat In China
• The Foods of Xi’an, China Muslim Quarter
• How to Party in a Restaurant in China

Don’t be nervous to walk into random restaurants.

I found that chinese people love it when they have foreigners come into their restaurant. You’re not a burden at all to them. They’ll help you order even if neither of you can speak each others language. Chances are that the local restaurants are going to be MUCH cheaper than the tourist restaurants.

Bunch of different kinds of dishes. All vegetables on the table.

Bao Zi (Steamed Filled Buns). My favorite breakfast.

BBQ Chicken in China. Yeap, even in China.

What do you think? Do you agree?

Why it’s impossible for you not to like chinese food is a post from Art of Backpacking

The Taiwan Night Market scene is a huge part of the local culture and one of the more beloved aspects for travelers visiting the country.  If you tend to err on the side of adventure with your culinary travels, here are three of the more unique, and perhaps bizarre, foods to check out at a Taipei Night Market.

And note, stinky tofu is not on this list because it’s so mainstream in the country that it’s often declared the national dish of Taiwan!

Duck Tongue

After nearly 2 ½ years of working up the nerve, I finally tried a duck tongue! Perhaps I may have cheated by going for the deep fried version over the more au naturel one, but hey, a duck tongue is a duck tongue, right?

The verdict?

Surprisingly, it wasn’t bad, but the texture was pretty much like eating a thick cut potato chip with shards of glass.  The tongue is filled with hard fibrous pieces that can stab you in the roof of your mouth if you aren’t careful.  And if your idea is to take it all as one big bite, you may be in for a world of hurt!

Like most night market foods, duck tongue comes on a stick – typically three to an order – so bring a friend or two if you don’t want to try more than one.

Crispy duck tongue is a popular Taipei night market snack

Chicken Anus

Oh yes….the butthole of a chicken. This one I actually tried by accident and it ended up being one of my more favorite bizarre night market snacks.  The first time I tried it, my friends were visiting from the US and wanted to play Andrew Zimmern.

The first night market stands we hit had a dizzying array of unidentifiable animal parts on a stick.  Turns out the woman running it spoke a little English and she pointed to a rather innocuous looking stick and then pointed to her buttocks, and said “chicken butt, you want to try?”

We all thought, “Hmmm, the butt of a chicken? This is easy!”  We split a stick and it was quite tasty – we just figured it was meaty part of a chicken’s tush.

It wasn’t until later that night at a different night market when several local girls were identifying various meats on a stick for us and they got to the chicken butt and when we proudly exclaimed we tried it already, their shocked faces and giggles made me quickly realize that was not your average chicken butt.

Through a few more giggles, and the helpful gesture of a hole with a finger through it, did we finally realize what we had eaten.

Sometimes ignorance is bliss perhaps, although I have to be honest now, chickens have some rather tasty buttocks!

Looks innocent enough, right? This is chicken anus -- you can't see the butthole from this side!

Pig’s Blood Cake

Those keeping Kosher or eating Halal may want to avert their eyes for this one.  Taiwanese Night Markets are known for a pretty interesting staple – pig’s blood cake.

Unlike things that have misleading names and may not be as bad as they sound, no, this is literal.  These yummies are just glutinous rice and congealed pig’s blood cut into nice squares and skewered for your night market munching convenience.

The use of blood is not all that uncommon in many other cultures either. Blood pudding and blood sausages are two common ways animal blood is incorporated into cuisine.  However, there is just something that often catches people off guard about eating a stick of pig’s blood held together by sticky rice.  You can even go gourmet and find versions that include peanut shavings, cilantro, and hot sauce drizzled on it.

And all pig’s blood cake is not alike – find a vendor that specializes in it rather than trying one from a stall that sells other organs and skewered meats – huge difference!

Sticks of pig's blood cake at a Taipei night market

This is obviously only an intro to some of the bizarre eats you can find at Taipei Night Markets.  While these may border on the “gross” for some, rest assured night markets in Taiwan are filled with countless “normal” and less obscure eats for those who don’t define culinary adventure as chomping on a chicken’s bunghole.

Three Bizarre Foods to Try at Taipei Night Markets is a post from Art of Backpacking

It’s about lunchtime and crowds of photo snapping tourists are sprawled throughout the square, photographing the golden lining buildings that blend multiple styles of architecture and art together. Within the hustle and bustle, a Chinese tour group take turns posing in front of the Gothic styled Hotel de Ville. A painter stands next to his small stall, eagerly waiting to make a sale as customers browse through his impressive art pieces. Children are joyfully playing, screaming and running, oblivious to the fact that they are in Europe’s most beautiful public square – Brussels’ Grand Place.

However, I’m not here to visit the impressive public square. In fact, I eagerly want to escape. I’m actually just passing through Grand Place, in search for a renowned bar called Delirium Café – a beer café which at a ridiculous total of two thousand and four, won the 2004 Guinness Book of World Records for having the most commercially available beers.

It was last night over beers that I heard about this beer cafe when my Franco-Belgian friend, Axel, casually mentioned it.

‘You know, beer is a way in life in Belgium.’ My friend told me with his nasally French accent.

‘It’s like what the French have with wine. But at this place, I think it perfectly summarises Belgian’s passion for beer.’

I was immediately hooked. Two thousand and four is a lot of beer.

To escape the bustling crowd, I immediately wander through the back alleys of Brussels city centre, passing through restaurants enticing customers for bowls of Moules Frites, mussels and fries – the Belgium national dish. Following my trusty tourist information map, I follow the maze of lefts, rights and straights until I finally stumble upon a blue painted bar with a sign that has a pink elephant and reads ‘Delirium Cafe’.

I enter inside, descend down the stairs and arrive at a dimly lit bar with wooden barrel tables, wooden furnishings and plate sized beer caps and other nostalgic items decorated throughout the ceiling and walls of the drinking hall.

I approach the bar where a crowd of customers are vying for the attention of the bartender. I look beyond the bartenders and see a wooden framed certificate proudly hanging on the wall. It’s the Guinness World Book of Records certificate.

It’s now my turn to order, and still unsure what beer I fancy, I ask the bartender for a menu. He pops over to his side and hands me a magazine as thick as a small phone book. I flick through the pages of the somewhat heavy phonebook of a menu and glance through their stock. Milky smooth brune beers, crisp and refreshing blondes, Trappist beer produced by monks in monasteries, sweet cherry flavoured Lambic beers, potent Tripel beers, subtly bitter and aromatic pale lagers; every beer imaginable was on this menu.

This made it all the more difficult to choose.

The previous crowd that had been awaiting their orders were now gone. The stylishly bald bartender stands there waiting patiently for my order. I look up to the man and ask for his opinion.

‘What type of beer do you like? Dark, Amber, blonde?’ he asks.

Previously, my knowledge of Belgium beer only extended to Stella Artois, a beer which I later found out to be the Belgian equivalent to American’s Budweiser.

Vaguely, I tell him ‘something brown and smooth.’

Instinctively, he grasps a bottle from the fridge below, whisks a glass goblet out of nowhere and flings it in the air. He skilfully catches it by the handle and pours the dark brew from the bottle into the goblet.

‘This one is Affligem brown. It’s a nice brown beer, a bit sweet but with lots of dark fruits and malt, but nice and smooth.’

I reach for my wallet and unfold it to realise that I only had enough money for one beer. I hesitantly pull out the note and give it to the bartender.

The change was handed to me and I sit myself at the bar on an awkwardly tall stool.

I look up above the bar, and all the wooden panels are decorated with monetary notes from all over the world, each written with a message and signature.

‘Best bar ever! – Steve’ the Australian $5 note read.

I sip my dark beer and taste its complexity. It’s exactly what the bartender described: subtly sweet dark fruits, roasted malts, and reasonably strong but very smooth. I slowly savour the dark brew while looking through the bulky magazine of a menu. I examine the bartenders and their work. The same stylishly bald bartender who had just served me pours the amber beer from the bottle into the cup until a few drops were left trapped inside. With the remaining beer in the bottle, he then furiously plays with the bottle; rapidly rolling forwards and backwards on the table, shaking it and swirling it with his thumb concealing the bottle hole. The remaining beer, now a thick cloudy foam, returns to its family as it was poured into the glass goblet. Never had I seen so much effort and skill put into a simple act of pouring beer from a bottle into a cup.

Intrigued, I ask the bartender the logic behind his special pouring method.

‘It’s a way to break down the yeast extracts and the acidity of the beer’

I then ask him if he’s tried all 2004 beers in the bar.

‘Oh yeah’ he says to me reassuringly. ‘…and more!’

Shortly after, a tanned man with olive black hair appears next to me. He asks the bartender for a certain beer. The bartender doesn’t understand the man. The tanned fellow reaches for the menu and determinedly browses through it in search of his beer.

The man finds his beer under the menu section of Saison – the pale ales brewed seasonally at farmhouses in Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Belgium.

The bartender nods his head as if approving the customer’s choice of beer. He heads towards the back of the bar, opens the cellars door and walks inside the vast room filled with 2004 varieties of beer. He shortly comes back with what looks like a small champagne bottle and presents it to the tanned man. He approves and the bartender unscrews the cork; a subtle pop sounds erupts and he then pours the silky yellow brew into a glass goblet.

After the man pays for his drink, he sits next to me and takes his first sip of the beer.

‘It’s a good beer’ he informs me in his seductive Latin accent, filled with passion.

‘It’s called Saison D’Epeautre. It’s the best beer in the world.’

That’s a huge claim, but the bartender seems to agree as he overhears our conversation.

‘Yeah it’s a pretty good beer. The brewery is run only by a father and son team, out in a farm in the country side. They only make like a few batches a year.’

The tanned man, again sips his drink, and displays emotions of pure happiness and ecstasy.

He asks where I’m from.

‘Oh, Australia? Are there any good beers in Australia? I hear Fosters is a good one.’

‘Yeah no one actually drinks that in Australia. It’s only sold outside the country, I think. But a good Australian beer?’

I struggle to answer his question. Ever since I arrived in Belgium, nothing seems remotely comparable to Belgian beers. All the beers in Australia seem so inferior now.

I give the man a weak answer.

‘There’s one called Coopers, that’s an interesting one. It’s got this white powdery thing on the bottom, so you need to shake it around before you drink it.’

The powdery thing, I later find out from this gentlemen, is actually the yeast extracts. We continue talking about beers and other chit chat. I discover that the man confirmed my speculation as he was indeed from the Canary Islands in Spain.

He spent the previous year, learning beer brewing in Germany and was now was looking for a brewery job in Belgium.

‘The Germans only have one way of making beer. They are very straightforward with their brewing. Belgians are flexible, they like to experiment. Do this and that. Add this and something else. It’s very interesting.’

I ask him what makes a good beer.

Without any hesitation, he instantly proclaims

‘Freshness. Good beer needs to have freshness’

Later on, my newly formed Spanish drinking buddy looks at his watch and notices the time. He has to catch a plane in the two hours. He then packs his things, shakes my hand and wishes me good travels.

Now all alone, I take my glass goblet and in one gulp finish my beer. Still eager for one more drink, I look over next to me where the Spaniard had been drinking and notice the champagne shaped beer bottle still was still half full.

It’s a crime for beer to be wasted, I justified.

I ask the bartender for a small glass. While the bartender fetched my cup, I quickly search inside the menu to find that Saison D’Epeautre was definitely out of my price range; $25EU for the small champagne sized bottle.

The bartender returns with the small glass cup. I clutch the still cool bottle and pour the remaining beer into the cup.

Delighted that I just scored a free beer, I take my first sip and tasted the dry beer with its light body and wheaty texture. I’m right in my suspicions, it’s not the world’s best beer but it definitely passes the Spaniard’s criteria; it has freshness.

The Freshness of Belgian Beer is a post from Art of Backpacking

Makdous (المكدوس)

Makdous is a dish you probably won’t find unless you visit the Levant region (Syria in particular). It consists of eggplants bathed in oil, stuffed with chopped red peppers, walnuts, garlic, then sprinkled with olive oil, salt and chili powder to taste. The eggplants are tangy and bite-size — a perfect first course!

Syrian makdous (Photo: Paul Joseph, Flikr Commons)

Kibbeh (كبة)

To my surprise, there are many types of kibbeh: Middle Eastern, Kurdish, and even Brazilian. Before I visited the Middle East, though, I did not even know what the word meant. But when my Lebanese friend introduced me to this croquette, it quickly became my favorite Middle Eastern snack! The Arab kind, which is actually pronounced koubba,  is a torpedo-shaped appetizer made of bulgur, stuffed with minced beef and then deep fried until brown. It is an essential part of mezze in the Levant (Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Palestine/West Bank, Israel), Egypt (koubeiba), Iraq, Iran, Cyprus (koupes), and Arabia.

Opened kibbeh (Photo: Ernesto Andrade, VirtualErn on Flikr)

Baba ghanoush (بابا غنوج)

I did not like eggplant until I tried this garlic-infused side dish at the hole-in-the-wall restaurant Taza in Dokki, Cairo. The recipe is simple: Roast, peel and mash some eggplants; then blend them with tahini, garlic, salt, vinegar, lemon juice, finely-chopped onions, tomatoes, and top it all off with an extra dash of cumin and chili powder. This flavorful mezze may be eaten cold as a salad or slightly warm as a pita dip. An insider’s tip? Spread baba ghanoush on your lamb kebab (my personal favorite)!

delicous baba ghanoush, garnished with nuts and olive oil

Kushari (كشرى)

Kushari is one of Egypt’s signature dishes. At first sight, it looks like several leftovers mixed together in one plate. Don’t let its looks fool you, though: Once you take a bite, you are in heaven. This flavorful dish consists of macaroni, rice, lentils, fried onions, garbanzo beans, vinegar, garlic and hot sauce. The best part? Kushari stands can be found all over Cairo and it is one of the cheapest meals you can buy in the country. The most infamous locations to try this staple Egyptian dish, though, are Koshary Abou Tarek (16 Maarouf St., Champollion, Cairo) and Koshary El Tahrir (12, Youssef El Gendy St. , off of Bab El Louk St.). Backpackers galore!

Never judge a book by its cover! (Photo: SirJman, Wiki Commons)

Kabsa (كبسة)

I’m not a big fan of rice, but the aromatic, flavorful Middle Eastern spices changed all that. Kabsa is the dish that best exemplifies this fact! Typically known as Saudi Arabia’s national dish, its origins may actually trace back to Yemen. However, it is eaten in most Gulf countries. My favorite thing about kabsa, though? Its endless possibilities! Bay leaves, black lime, cinnamon, saffron, nutmeg, raisins, pine nuts…you name the spice and garnish to top it all off. As long as it is made with basmati rice, mixed vegetables, Middle Eastern spices, meats and/or seafood, it is fair game. Thus, recipes and spice mixes may vary greatly from country to country, household to household. Chances are, two kabsas will never be the same.

sumptuous kabsa!

In addition to impressive desert landscapes and extensive history, you have yet another reason to visit the Middle East: It’s delicious food!

Traveling Through Middle Eastern Food is a post from Art of Backpacking

There is no doubt that Japan is the king when it comes to intriguing and often oddball themed restaurants.  Taiwan also has its share of themed restaurants as well – the most popular, and perhaps most disturbing to many, is Modern Toilet.

You may recognize Modern Toilet from a Travel Channel feature several years ago and, if you didn’t see it, well, the name of the restaurant pretty much gives it away.

What started as a basic Taiwanese dessert shop selling ice creamed shaped like ‘poo’ has turned into an entire themed menu with multiple locations across the island.

The chain is extremely popular with teenagers and college kids, and of course – tourists.  Whenever we have friends in town, they usually want to try it at least once.  The food is solid and as far as themed restaurants go, Modern Toilet knocks it ‘out of the bowl.’

Welcome to the Modern Toilet restaurant in Taipei, Taiwan

The two Modern Toilets in Taipei that we visit are both located in popular areas of town – the Shilin Night Market and Ximen, a spot often compared to Shibuya in Tokyo.

You don’t even have to enter a Modern Toilet restaurant to get a feel for the theme.  From the giant stuffed smiling doo doo to the themed merchandise in the window, it’s all about the poop.

A giant pink pile of poop greets you at the Ximen Modern Toilet

Diners sit on crazy colored western toilets and eat off giant sinks.  Need a napkin? Snag some toilet paper off the roll on the wall.  On at least one wall, you will find some bathroom necessities — Chinese language magazines.

Interior of the Modern Toilet near Shilin Night Market in Taipei

Grab some toilet paper off the roll if you need a napkin

The servers will bring you an English menu and sharpie, and you mark off the items you want.  Take it to the counter and pay first, otherwise you will find yourself sitting there indefinitely, or until you realize everyone else is going up to pay.

The menu is pretty basic, with dishes served either out of a miniature toilet bowl, bathtub, or even a sink.  My personal favorite is the drink.  Depending on what you order, most arrive in a pretty urinal with the longest curly straw I’ve ever seen.  Be sure to try the cranberry green tea with chunks of fresh cranberries at the bottom.

Pasta served in a sink and your drink in a urinal

For main courses, choose from different curries or hot pots, and even a few western offerings line the menu.  And if you like spice, they do know how to turn up the heat.  Granted, you may pay for it in your own bathroom the next day!

For dessert, the standard included option is what put Modern Toilet on the map.  It’s ice cream, but more like an ice milk dessert.  The soft serve treat looks like a pile of poo and comes served in one of my top five most hated things about Asia – the horrific squat toilet.

If you have a few people with you, splurge and go for the near lifelike size squat toilet dessert that almost has the entire kitchen sink in it.  It’s a Taiwanese shaved ice dessert with everything imaginable on it – marshmallows resembling Lucky Charms cereal, fresh fruit, cookies, gummies, scoops of ice cream and more.  This can easily be shared among a few friends, or a tour group of 50.

Giant shaved ice dessert served in a squat toilet

And for another touch of irony – stop by the real bathroom in Modern Toilet.  While you may sit on a western style toilet to eat, you will only find traditional squat toilets, with western toilets as sinks, in a couple of the Modern Toilet locations!

Just in case you’re wondering, you are not eating out of real toilets or sinks. Everything is foodsafe and made especially for the Modern Toilet restaurant.  I only say this because I’ve had several people comment they would never go there and eat out of a real toilet.  Really…? Can’t you just see a server carrying an actual toilet to a table with food in it? Imagine the size dishwashers needed to clean those!

Before you leave Modern Toilet, check out their interesting selection of customized goods.  From poo shaped keychains and Christmas tree ornaments, to your own Modern Toilet squat toilet or urinal, they have everything poop related imaginable.  And, for those people who always say, “bring me back a souvenir,” you may have finally found something that will keep them from ever asking again.

Any bathroom related souvenirs to go?

Theme Restaurants: Modern Toilet in Taipei, Taiwan is a post from Art of Backpacking

As I currently sit here in Los Angeles, where the temperatures are more reminiscent of summer rather than the middle of January, I find myself missing the gloomy weather of Taipei right now — but only to satiate my craving for a Taiwanese shaved ice.

Growing out of the Ben & Jerry’s phase where I thought a pint of Cherry Garcia could fix the world’s problems, I now turn to delights like Taiwanese mango shaved ice for moments of sadness, joy, refreshment, and well, any other excuse that pops into mind.

If you have ever looked at any given guide book on Taiwan, nine times out of ten you will find a recommendation or notation about Ice Monster in Taipei and its legendary Mango Shaved Ice.

Ice Monster's Mango Shaved Ice

It’s even more legendary now, because well, like all good things that must come to an end, so did Ice Monster.  After a bitter alimony dispute, Ice Monster closed up shop in January 2010, leaving scores of travelers and locals heartbroken.

Since then, a new store (Yong Kang 15) reopened in its place, but it has not yet achieved the same international notoriety yet, despite “rumors” that the previous Ice Monster owner signed on as a technical advisor.  However, opening in the exact location Ice Monster once stood pretty much guarantees Yong Kang 15 business from travelers toting their 2010 edition guidebooks.

Over the past two years, I’ve received emails and pleas from other travelers looking to find other shaved ice in Taipei.  Surprisingly, it’s not that hard to find.  From night markets to dedicated shops like Yong Kang 15, Taiwanese shaved ice is a staple in Taipei.

Bào Bīng (剉冰)

Often called bào bīng (剉冰), shaved ice is a popular dessert in Taipei, especially during the scorching summer months we get.  If you happen to be visiting during a cold month, just ignore the funny stares and giggles you may get from locals ordering hot desserts, and proudly dig into the frozen sweet goodness.  I certainly do.

Taiwan style shaved ice is available with a variety of toppings, but most prefer fresh mango when in season.  Mangos in Taiwan are said to be among some of the best in the world, and I will personally vouch that they are certainly some of the best I’ve ever tasted to date.

What sets Taiwanese shaved ice apart from many others I’ve tried in different countries is the fine, snow-like quality of the ice.  It’s not a hard sno-cone you could lob at your worst enemy, it’s resembles fluffy snow that just beckons you to make a snow angel.  At least based on Hollywood movie versions of snow angels!  

Atop the heaping bowl of shaved ice, choose from toppings like strawberries, mango, red bean, mung beans, grass jelly, taro, etc.  And often times, they include a scoop of fresh ice cream…or two.

Bao Bing with pudding and grass jelly

If the soupy goodness of the fruit and ice cream weren’t enough, the symbolic cherry on top is a generous slathering of sweetened condensed milk.  It’s not overly sweet where your teeth ache, but provides just enough sweetness to tie the entire dessert together.  I’ve seen other variations with chocolate sauce or sugar syrup.  It really depends on the shop and what flavors or toppings you order.

Xue Hua Bing (雪花冰)

While I could devote an entire post to this, another variation is xue hua bing (雪花冰), commonly referred to as Taiwanese snow ice.  Rather than flaky bits of ice, the base of the dessert is typically layered-sheets of frozen condensed milk.  The consistency is achieved through the milky base and a special machine that shaves the ice.

While I prefer the basic condensed milk base with passion fruit syrup, other popular varieties include green tea ice with red beans, and chocolate ice with sprinkles.  I’ve seen a few places offering corn topping (you can practically find corn on anything in Taiwan), but I can honestly say that one isn’t on my short list of flavors to try.

Green Tea Xue Hua Bing or Taiwan snow ice

Where to Find Taiwanese Shaved Ice Desserts

When visiting Taiwan, look for shaved ice stalls at popular night markets like Shilin.  There are booths inside the food building and several small shops on various alleyways. Many stores have no English signage, but offer lots of pictures on the wall, so just wander around and point to whichever one you want to order.

To try the “Ice Monster replacement”, Yong Kang 15 is super easy to find – its name is the address.  Located on the famed foodie street, just around the corner from the original Din Tai Fung, Yong Kang 15 is on a corner, about two block down on the left-hand side.  If it’s a hot Saturday night, just look for the line as your turn on to Yong Kang.

Line at Yong Kang 15 on Grand Opening night

If you have no plans to visit Taiwan soon, you may still be in luck as the addiction of Taiwanese shaved ice is spreading.  Chains like Charmy have branches in other countries, selling the “snow ice”.  Cities that have a larger Taiwanese presence typically have a few shops as well.  Bigger cities like San Francisco and Los Angeles definitely have stores that sell Taiwanese shaved ice, and while some may not be as good as what you get in Taiwan, it certainly beats not trying it at all!

Taiwanese Shaved Ice Desserts: Bào Bīng (剉冰) and Xue Hua Bing (雪花冰) is a post from Art of Backpacking