Eating on a Budget in Istanbul

Istanbul Food

by Lena Kozlova on November 17, 2010

in Destinations,Europe,Featured,Food / Drinks

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Istanbul is a stunning city: clean, green, with ambience of both a modern megapolis and an ancient settlement. It is one of those places that you absolutely can’t afford to miss. Like Rome or New York, Istanbul is unforgettable, impressive, and highly enjoyable.

It’s hardly a surprise that the city attracts millions of travelers. The municipal government, however, has worked hard to make things convenient for tourism: efficient and understandable transportation system, street names and historic sites descriptions in English and free WiFi at most of the central squares are just a few things worth mentioning. The costs, however, are directly proportional to Istanbul’s popularity: it’s anything but cheap. Be prepared to pay EU15/USD20 as an entrance fee to all key museums (Basilica Cistern being a notable exception at EU7/USD10); around EU50 per night for a centrally located budget hotel, hostel or guest house (usually including breakfast); and starting from EU15 for a lunch or a dinner.

Accommodation and museum fees are inevitable – the city deserves to be seen – but mastering the art of eating like a local can easily save you EU20+ a day. Street food – ubiquitous and delicious – is the cornerstone of Istanbul-on-a-budget approach.

Below you will find pictures, descriptions and prices of 10 typical Istanbul snacks and drinks:

1) Corn – (go for the boiled as grilled is usually too hard) is sold everywhere from street vendors’ carts at 1TL/EU0.50 per piece;

Corn and chestnut stand

Corn and chestnut stand by Lena Kozlova

2) Fried chestnuts – similar to Rome or Paris, a package of hot chestnuts is a popular treat. Often sold along corn, chestnuts vary in price greatly: from 5TL/EU2.50 (100 gr) in front of famous sites to 3TL/EU1.50 just a block away.

Hot chestnuts

Hot chestnuts by Lena Kozlova

3) pastry is also sold from numerous carts in places where crowds tend to gather – from tourist attractions to ferry stations; variety isn’t stunning: sweet doughnut-like things, pretzels or stuffed baked pies. Depending on the size, kind and location prices vary from 0.50TL/EU0.25 to 2TL/EU1.

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

4) mussels stuffed with rice – sold in the streets (especially near ferry stations) and cheap cafeterias for up to 1TL/EU0.50 per piece

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

5) kebabs – come in all shapes, forms and sizes, and thus range in price quite a bit, but on the street will never cost you more than 10TL/EU5, usually closer to 5TL/EU2.50.

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

Istanbul by Lena Kozlova

6) fish kebab – a variety sold from many stands and couple rather peculiar decorated boats in front of Eminonu ferry station (home to most ferries to the Asian side and tours around Bosporus) for 4TL/EU2. It features grilled sardines, fresh Turkish bread, sliced onions and salad leaves and is usually seasoned with lemon juice.

7) spicy pickles – the most unusual and by far my favorite kind of Istanbul street food. Sold from decorated carts near Eminonu station in plastic cups (with delicious juice/marinade), it’s a perfect side dish for a fish kebab. Only 1.50TL/EU0.75 per portion.

Fish kebab boat by Lena Kozlova

Fish kebab boat by Lena Kozlova

Spicy Pickles Cart

Spicy Pickles Cart by Lena Kozlova

Locals eating fish kebabs and pickles in front of Eminonu ferry station by Lena Kozlova

Locals eating fish kebabs and pickles in front of Eminonu ferry station by Lena Kozlova

A fish kebab and spicy pickles - a delicious lunch for just 5.50TL/EU2.75 by by Lena Kozlova

A fish kebab and spicy pickles - a delicious lunch for just 5.50TL/EU2.75 by by Lena Kozlova

8 ) Ayran - not as ubiquitous as tea, ayran stands are usually located near bazaars and tourist shops. It enhances digestion, so drink it before eating a not-so-light kebab. 1TL/EU0.50.

Ayran

Ayran by Lena Kozlova

Ayran by Lena Kozlova

Ayran by Lena Kozlova

9) fresh pomegranate juice – juice stands, both mobile and permanent, are everywhere. 3TL/EU1.50 per glass.

10) tea - you won’t be able to get away from it! Turks drink tea ten times a day – so it’s sold everywhere in recognizable Turkish glasses. With the lowest actual cost, tea prices are arbitrary and entirely depend on location.

Here is comparison of prices of 1 cup of tea in different places:

- on Eminonu-Kadikoy ferry tea is sold for only 0.50TL/EU0.25
- in the marina on the Marmar Sea numerous tea vendors ask for 1TL/EU0.50
- on boat tour around Bosporus and in key touristic sites be prepared to pay 2TL/EU1
- and the most outrageous price – 2.50TL/EU1.25 – has been spotted at Grand Bazaar

Tea between Europe and Asia: at Eminonu-Kadikoy ferry by by Lena Kozlova

Tea between Europe and Asia: at Eminonu-Kadikoy ferry by by Lena Kozlova

So, walk around, keep your eyes open and bon appétit!

  • http://www.adventurebimbling.com/ Andrew Murray

    Nice! Laura is being working in Istanbul in December, so that covers the hotel aspect. A cheap flight, a kebab, some spicy pickles and I’ll be away!
    Thanks for the interesting read :)

    • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

      I’m sold by the pictures of the kebab.

  • http://twitter.com/MivsyPeach marvi

    oh i love turkey, by far one of my favorite places. i love the donut carts, they’re kind of like churros that have been soaked in sugar syrup, yummmm!

    • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

      Churros soaked in sugar syrup? Wow… Why haven’t I been to Turkey yet?

  • http://wherespoople.com Jill

    Thanks for the list. We have Istanbul on our must-visit city so this has been an interesting read. Wonder what the vegetarian scene is like over there…

    • Connie Hum

      Hi Jill, I lived in Istanbul for 7 months last year and have become quite familiar with their cuisine. Turkish food is heavy on meat and you’ll be hard presses to find strictly vegetarian retaurants, but there are certainly a lot of mezze (think appetizer) dishes that are vegetarian. You can fill yourself up on a number of mezzes for a complete vegetarian meal. A lot of their soups are vegetarian as well, though you might want to ask what the base for their soups are. Could be chicken or beef stock. Istanbul is truly a magical city and I hope you get to visit soon!

      • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

        Heavy on meat? Sounds like my kind of place.

      • http://tinybackpacker.com/ Lena Kozlova

        I happen to be a piscaterian – not meat, but I do eat seafood. My usual meals consisted of, as Connie suggested, a few starters (big fan of hummus) and a soup (lentil soup is the best).

  • http://turkishtravelblog.com Natalie – Turkish Travel Blog

    Brilliant post. Have to say though, that I went off corn ever since I seen one of the street sellers scratching his b*******. Made me wonder where else his fingers had been!

    • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

      Haha ewww

    • http://tinybackpacker.com/ Lena Kozlova

      True, true, but then worrying about butt-scratching vendors means not eating any street food. I take my chances. ;)

  • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

    Putting these foods in my must-eat list.

  • http://positiveworldtravel.com Elise

    Great post! Turkey is on one of our must visit places-so I’ll be looking forward to the food there. The fish kebab looks AMAZING!!! YUM!

    • http://tinybackpacker.com/ Lena Kozlova

      Fish kebab is really good, but the key to success is to put loads of lemon juice on those grilled sardines.

  • Schz

    All not very expensive and delicious!!!!

  • http://www.travelfunnytravellight.blogspot.com Claire

    Was just there in April and had the most amazing sandwich ever. It was the meat off the the spit (don’t know how else to describe it!) stuffed into a pita with any number of toppings you could possibly desire. Stuff that doesn’t even go together, but oh. my. goodess!

  • http://fastforwardacademy.com/index-page-continuing-professional-education-enrolled-agent.htm enrolled agent cpe

    Istanbul sounds like an amazing place to visit. I have to admit, food is one thing that I always consider before going someplace. Too bad I have so many restrictions because of allergies and can’t really try everything.

    • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

      That must be rough for traveling. Do you try to know a few words in the language to make sure it doesn’t have the things you are allergic to? I had a friend allergic to peanuts and anything cooked in peanut oil she couldn’t eat.

  • http://inspiringtravellers.com/ Andrea and John

    What an awesome post! I love street food and Turkish cuisine is one of my favs – I can’t wait to get to Istanbul; in fact, I’d love to spend a few months in Turkey. Thanks for all these great photos =)

    • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

      Same here. I’m a fan of street food and it looks amazing in Turkey. Can’t wait to check it out someday.

  • http://twitter.com/jetsetgisele Gisele Jones

    Great post Lena, I was thinking about going to Istanbul soon and now I am really considering booking it asap!….hopefully I won’t eat TOO much. I have heard good things about the Pudding Shop in Sultanahmet. Did you manage to visit it? It’s an old hippy hang out or something like that!

  • http://onlinehiatus.blogspot.com/ Ira

    Sigh, thank you for reminding me of the joys of being in Istanbul! I loved the food, the 0.75TL pretzels are a personal favorite, their smell is euphoria-inducing.

    I have to disagree with you about accommodation though. We were located in Sultanahmet, 3 quick minutes away from the Blue Mosque and all we paid for accommodation was 30 Euro for a double including breakfast. That was a decent 3-star hotel, and it wasn’t the only one at this price. Hostels are definitely much cheaper than that, I think they start at 5 Euro per person.

    But all in all, Istanbul did surprise me with relatively high prices, they don’t really match those of Western European capitals, but I certainly expected them to be uhh.. a bit more tame. It was still absolutely worth it though.

  • http://missdiazepam.blogspot.com Miss Diazepam

    I have to second what someone has already written about accomodations: you can definitely find cheaper than that! Even in the summer, during full blown season, the cheapest hostel will be at least 10 euros per bed! including breakfast usually, and in winter even cheaper…

    Also, restaurants in Sultanahmet are all expensive cuz it’s the touristy area…if you wanna treat yourself for at least one good meal, hop on a boat to the Asian side and have your lunch/dinner in a proper restaurant there! Cheaper and I think even better food!

    • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

      Good to know! Thanks for the tip.

  • http://migrationology.com Migrationology

    Good to know about some cheap food options in Istanbul. Those are some pretty fancy, decked out street carts! I think I will head straight for that fish kebab sandwich!

    • http://artofbackpacking.com Michael

      Yeah, those street carts look pretty serious.

  • André Vieira

    You forgot about fantastic Kokoreç :D